LED Matrix Panel Mounts

I dare say that as I play with more and more of these LED matrix panels i’ll come up with multiple ways of mounting them together. If you have more than one panel and you are bench testing then you will know about the struggle of holding these things up whilst testing. Most of these mounts are quick nasty perspex runs, however you could easily modify them to suit your application. I’ll continue to add mounts as I make/use/design them. #Happymounting

LED Matrix Mounts

Parts designed in Solidworks 2015, also please check measurements of the LED matrix panel. There is a long list of panels coming out of China. These mounts fit the panels I have received, but may not fit yours.

JX-1212 CNC Router

A year or so ago we managed to import a 1200 x 1200 3 axis Chinese built CNC router into Australia. Obviously you get what you pay for, this beast came in at under $7k landed. However the build quality has been pretty good with only minor issues. But these have not affected the machines output at all. If we were to go again with a router of this size, I think we would have to go a full sheet size (2400 x 1200). The additional charges/costs would not be to much greater, but having the flexibility to put a full sheet down could save some time. I guess it just comes down to what your intended use is and how large the end product is.

JX-1212 Specs

  • Cut area 1200 x 1200
  • 3Kw Spindle
  • Hiwin linear bearings

  • Vaccuum Table
  • Rack and Pinion X axis
  • Dust Brush/Collector

  • DSP Controller with remote.
  • Collets, Router Bits and a few other accessories.

Software and Firmware

The CNC came with a RichAuto A11 DSP. To be brutally honest it is not the most user friendly interface, however it is usable and after a bit of manual flicking you will understand what the controls are. You can find more details about the RichAuto DSP here: http://www.richauto.com.cn/en/product_view.aspx?id=53

On the software side of things I use Aspires Vetric CAM software to generate my tool-paths and convert to a format the CNC/DSP can understand. So a complete project flow might involve designing the 2D part in solid works, then importing the DXF into Aspire to create the tool-paths. From here I export the tool-path to a USB drive and bring it up on the DSP controller.

Redsail X700 100W Laser Cutter

Did I mention that we just took possession of our new laser cutter? After a 4 -5 week wait the new Redsail X700 laser from china finally rocked up. And to be honest, first impressions have been pretty good. You can still tell the unit has come from China, but the build quality is definitely better then some of our past purchases. The Redsail X700 is marketed on Ebay by “Lasercheap” and at first I was a bit weary of ordering from them. However a mate of ours managed to do the hard yards first and got one in for us to have a look at before ordering ours. It took the guess work out of it. I’m hoping this post will also help you make an informed decision when purchasing a laser from China.

X700 Specs

  • Cut area 500x700
  • 100W ReCi Laser
  • DSP controller

  • USB/Ethernet Interface
  • Exhaust Fan, Air/Water Pump

  • Reflect Optics
  • Red Dot

Software and Firmware

For those of you that are not sure where to start, the biggest point is to ensure you have the correct software up and running. Our machine arrived with the TL-403CB DSP controller. As at 24/5/16 we have tested up to Firmware V.L007.075 and AutoLaser v2.2.2 We had to do a bit of”googling” to find out the manufacturer of the DSP and finally found the software here: http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/en/down.asp – I cannot guarantee this will work for everyone, best to check your DSP controller first. (You can find the model number in the side access panel of the machine)

Update 13/2/17 - I fried the Laser

I got to work on a small piece that I had drawn up. Just a simple mount for an LCD screen out of perspex. The problem is that I had to do multiple pieces of the LCD mount and ended up needing 18 of the same cut. As it turns out the ambient temp of the workshop and the small reservoir of water I was using for cooling was in not way sufficient for the repetitive cuts I was doing.

The end state is that we literally cooked the laser. The laser was now shorting inside the tube…Lesson learnt…the hard way.

So, we had a spare 125W tube lying around that clearly was never going to fit length ways, however it was the same dia. Seems legit? What do you think. Any problems? apart from someone tripping on the protrusion..

I’ve also sorted a proper cooling solution using some oldish MRI cooling units that I sourced. In the past I had just been using these to cool the spindle on the CNC router.

PiFrame - Surfboard

The idea behind this was to create an aesthetically pleasing frame for an old screen that I had lying around. No chance was I going to create a standard boring square frame and hang this on the wall. It has been done before…. A few weeks prior to making the surfboard frame I had seen a really nice piece of static wall art with a massive photo framed into a board. It looked unreal and was the inspiration for this surfboard PiFrame.

Parts List

  • Suitable wooden panel approx 18-20mm thick. (I used 1800x600 Panel, 18mm thick)
  • An old LCD monitor (Preferably with buttons including power on the bottom or back. not on the front.)
  • A Solid wall mount (I used a small VESA mount extendable arm - yes it holds the weight fine....)
  • RPI2 with Raspbian installed.
  • 5v PSU - (I used good quality Meanwell enclosed PSU)
  • HDMI cable
  • USB wifi module
  • 240v IEC cable - Y cable with two inputs.

The Frame

For the Initial board I decided to use the workshop CNC router to speed up the process. The first thing we did was decide upon the shape for the board. The classic thruster shape seemed like the best choice as we could scale it down to fit the 1800×600 wooden panel easily. After drawing up the basic board shape in solid works I moved the drawing over to Aspire. We use Aspire to create our tool paths for the CNC. We then measured the outer edges of the monitor without compensation. The LCD monitor needed to press fit nicely into the wooden panel.

Cutting out the basic template is pretty quick and easy with the CNC router. After we have the basic frame, a quick sand all over using 80grit and 120 grit sandpaper…..then some wet and dry. A base coat of blue paint was applied and a light wash of white. Another quick sand to give it the ‘weathered’ look and a coat of clear varnish has the frame ready to seat the LCD monitor and electronics.

The Hardware

The cut-out for the LCD into the frame was just about perfect and the monitor pressed in nicely, at this stage we didn’t really even need to secure it to the screen as it was a very nice fit. (You may want to affix the frame to the monitor!) Mounting of the hobby enclosure was through 4 x self tapping screws. Just make sure you do not punch through the front of the frame. The electronics hobby box was a bit of a mash together as you can tell, but if you spend a bit more time on it, im sure you can mount everything a bit nicer than what I have.

For the wall mount we decided that the most flexible option was the LCD monitor swing arm. You need to be careful with the weight on these things, however after a bit of experimenting we found that the short arm was perfect and stable enough to hold the weight of the LCD, the frame and the electronics.

The Software

  • Raspbian OS on RPi
  • Sign Up for an account at DAKboard.com (This is a BETA web configuration I used to display items in the frame)
  • Install Chromium web browser on the PI. (A perfect browser for Kiosk mode - see Dakboard.com for install)

I stumbled accross a little web site that specialises in turning a monitor into a useful device that is actually asthetically pleasing. It involves setting up an account and setting the Pi’s web browser to kiosk mode and loading the page in full screen. Once loaded it can show data such as, Date, Time, Weather, iCal calendar entries and link to dropbox or flikr to display HD background photos. Not a bad setup, but i stress that it is in BETA and has a few bugs. I believe there are other project floating about that can do similar. (Post them in the comments, I’m keen to explore other possibilities.)

What Next?

Let me know if you want a detailed article on all the installation steps including step-by-step install of the software. Please comment below.

Raspberry Pi HAT design files

I have embarked on a journey to create a Raspberry Pi HAT for a little project of mine and I wanted to share a couple of things that I think may help you speed up your development time in the future. As of 11/5/16 I have tested out the DXF importing it into KiCad and using as the edge cut profile. The blank PCB’s test HATS we had made up fit nicely on the RPi2. As I push further on this journey I’ll continue to post any design files that I feel could help you with future iterations.

I can confirm that this fits onto the rPi3 also.

RPi HAT Files

How to Solder #101

Never used a soldering iron? Does the art of soldering seem a bit of a mystery to you? Have you tried your hand at soldering and found it difficult to produce results you’re happy with? Do you feel your soldering technique could do with some improvement? If you answered any of the above questions in the affirmative, you’re in the right place!

It is widely known in the hardware hacking community that you simply cannot take over the world if you don’t know how make connections. Connections which are both electrically and physically sound, that is. Welcome to Soldering 101 – here you will learn the basics of soldering, allowing you to make reliable electrical connections for all those projects you have in mind or in progress.

Items Required

  • Soldering Iron
  • Solder
  • Damp sponge/Tip cleaner
  • Scrap wire to practise soldering
  • Cardboard or newspaper to protect your work surface
  • Heat shrink
  • Heat gun or gas stove to shrink the heat shrink


Clear and prepare your workspace – keep in mind that you will be wielding an implement which will be reaching over three hundred degrees Celsius. Remove anything that could be accidentally melted or could result in the application of such temperatures to any unintended surfaces (like human skin – it hurts!). Place down an old newspaper or cardboard, something with a bit of thickness to it in order to protect your work surface by insulating it from the heat of any molten solder which could fall from your connection during the process. Though it seems counter intuitive what with paper and cardboard being relatively flammable, the temperature you will be soldering with is well below the ignition point of these materials.

Prepare your soldering iron. Power it up – you’ll know you’re ready to go when the tip of your iron can melt your solder! Ensure that your tip cleaning sponge is wet – not just damp, but wet. ‘Tin’ your soldering iron tip – the process of ‘tinning’ in soldering is applying a layer of fresh solder. This is done by feeding solder onto the hot tip of your iron – you should notice a small amount of smoke followed by a nice shiny-looking soldering iron tip. Your soldering iron tip should always be clean and shiny for successful soldering.

If you cannot complete step three successfully, a set of ‘helping hands’ from your local electrical supplier may be the next best thing. During soldering, the items to be connected need to be held in contact long enough for the solder to dry – and this is more often that not easier said than done without something to hold it in place for you.


Strip 2-4mm of insulation from the two ends of wire you wish to join. Once the insulation has been stripped, twist the conductor strands together. This prevents fraying during the soldering process.

Tin each end. This is done by squashing some solder between the wire you wish to tin and the tip of your soldering iron. Successful tinning results in a fresh, shiny appearance. You should also notice that once the solder is dry, the once flexible stranded conductor behaves more like solid wire where you have tinned it.

It is important to ensure your connection is electrically insulated to prevent any unwanted electron movement shenanigans. For a neat, secure, and professional look, use heat shrink tubing. Heat shrink is a type of electrical insulator which shrinks in diameter when heat is applied, holding it in place over bare electrical connections. The heat shrink I am using has a 2:1 shrink ratio, which means it will end up half the diameter it started with when fully shrunk. Choosing the correct diameter heat shrink for your connection is simple – it needs to be large enough to slide over the wire(s) you wish to join, but small enough so that before it shrinks to half its size, it has a firm grip on the connection!  Cut the heat shrink to a length which is longer than the length of your connection by about 4-6 times. This allows you to leave 2-3 times the length of your connection worth of heat shrink on either side of the connection, so that a seal is formed between the insulation of the wire and the heat shrink.

Slide your heat shrink over one side of the connection BEFORE soldering the two together. This is a great habit to develop for situations that would require unsoldering of the connection if the heat shrink is not slid into position before joining. This can be due to the other end of the wires being terminated with connectors that are too large to fit the appropriately sized heat shrink over, or in this particular situation where the wire is to be soldered into a loop for demonstration purposes, there is no way to slide the heat shrink into position once the ends are joined!

Time to make the join! At this stage you should have:

  • Two nicely tinned and shiny wire ends to join.
  • Heat shrink slid over one end, far enough back to prevent premature shrinking from the heat of the soldering process.
  • A nice clean, shiny soldering iron tip. If your tip is dull or covered in browny-blackish yuck, quickly and gently wipe tip through your wet sponge. Melt some fresh solder onto your tip if necessary to get that clean, shiny look.

Place the two wire ends to be joined in contact with each other. It is often easier to set up one end in a stationery position, while holding the other end in one hand, and your soldering iron in the other. This allows you to position the two ends while you apply heat to them both with the soldering iron. You should notice the point at which the solder on both ends melts and joins the two ends – this is the trickiest part! Remove the soldering iron tip from the connection the moment you notice both ends melt together, but you must hold the two ends in position until the solder hardens! If you observe closely you will notice the surface of the solder change slightly as it hardens. For connections this size allowing 5-10 seconds is enough to ensure to solder has hardened. For much larger connections this process may take a longer period of time – learn to spot that subtle visual change when solder changes from molten to solid!

Once you have made a satisfactory join (don’t be afraid to play around and practice until you get the join to your liking), it is time to install the heat shrink. The heat shrink is to be positioned such that its centre aligned with the centre of the join. To begin with, you may find the centring technique pictured useful.

Once the heat shrink is in position, fire up your heat gun (a hairdryer is inconveniently not hot enough).  Pictured you will see a gas-powered flameless heat gun which is ideal for shrinking heat shrink.

A direct flame is too hot and will damage the heat shrink, while a hair dryer does not get it hot enough to begin shrinking. While holding the connection clear of anything that could melt (think plastics), bring your heat gun closer to the heat shrink slowly until you notice it beginning to shrink. Maintain this distance while rotating your connection or moving your heat gun around your connection to ensure complete shrinkage. If you do not have access to a heat gun but have a gas stove, you’re in luck! Ignite your smallest burner and turn it down to the lowest setting. From a height of approximately 300mm slowly lower your connection toward the burner until you notice shrinking. Once shrinking begins, maintain this distance from the burner while slowly rotating your join in order to ensure complete shrinkage. You should notice the shape of the insulation and wire join start to appear through the heat shrink as it clings snugly to your connection.

And there you have it! A nice, neat, mechanically and electrically sound connection! …or is it? How do we know? We must test it, of course! Try tugging your connection apart firmly – it should hold just fine if done correctly – if not, you’re going to have to try again. If your connection can’t stand up to a controlled tug, it is a failure waiting to happen! Be thankful that you have found this flaw in your work so early allowing you to rectify it! The connection should also be electrically conductive. A simply continuity test with a multimeter is a nice way of confirming this.

Wrap it up....

And there you have it! A nice, neat, mechanically and electrically sound connection! …or is it? How do we know? We must test it, of course! Try tugging your connection apart firmly – it should hold just fine if done correctly – if not, you’re going to have to try again. If your connection can’t stand up to a controlled tug, it is a failure waiting to happen! Be thankful that you have found this flaw in your work so early allowing you to rectify it! The connection should also be electrically conductive. A simply continuity test with a multimeter is a nice way of confirming this.

Effective soldering is a wonderfully useful skill to possess in the electrical world – be sure to dedicate some time preparing connections like the one described in this tutorial until you are familiar and competent with the process, selecting some scrap wire and cutting it in order to join it again is great practice.

Be sure to ask any questions you may have in the comments section!

How to find your Raspberry Pi IP Address

Finding the IP address of a freshly imaged Raspberry Pi can sometimes be a PITA. Especially if you do not have access to a spare HDMI cable, monitor, mouse and keyboard. In this article we will cover off on a few methods to identify your Raspberry Pi IP address on your network. As with all things there are many ways to achieve this however I have listed a few of the non complex methods here.


  • DHCP is enabled on your router
  • Your Raspberry Pi is plugged in via Ethernet
  • Your Pi is powered up.

Finding your RPi IP address

Sometimes finding your Raspberry Pi IP address can be a pain in the bum depending on how your network is setup and the resources you have available. Finding the IP can be achieved in a few different ways.

The first method may be to connect a monitor/keyboard/mouse to the Pi and get it to boot into the GUI. However we do not always have a HDMI cable, keyboard and mouse handy. The second method could be to connect to the Pi in its “headless” state using a third party application. Failing the above methods, you could also log into your router and check your ARP table. However each router is different and results can sometimes be confusing. I would have to say that using the third party apps is the easiest method.

Third Party App: AngryIP (My personal Favourite!)

Navigate your way to: http://angryip.org/download/ and download the AngryIP software applicable for your operating system. Install the software as per every other application you have and run.

This piece of software is super simple, input the IP range you wish to scan. eg – (You could probably shorten this if you know what your DHCP range is set to – Will save time sifting through 255 results)

Then click “Start”. The app will search through the whole range and display hostnames in the third column. You will be looking for something similar to the image below.

Third Party App: Adafruit Pi Finder

Download the Adafruit Pi Finder application via the github page: https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-Pi-Finder (Remember to select the correct version for your Windows operating system.)

Download, and unzip the directory to a familiar location on your PC. Look for the Pi Finder.exe file and run it.

Once Pi Finder is running, simply click “Find My Pi” and it will carry out a search for any Raspberry Pi’s on your network. Once complete, you will be able to see the IP address of your Pi and even access an SSH terminal direct from the app. However if like me you are not yet familiar with all the commands you can use this IP in Notepad++ to create a visual link into your Pi.

What Next?

  • Configure Network configuration files
  • Enable/Setup WiFi connection

Edit files on your Raspberry Pi the easy way

For us linux “late-adopters” it can be a daunting task of carrying out a routine file transfer to our Raspberry Pi from our Windows PC. However the learning curve is not so great. There are plenty of easy tools for achieving this feat. If you have not been introduced to Notepad++ then we will give you a quick introduction. We will also educate you on a small plugin inside of Notepad++ that allows you to run a lightweight FTP client. This client is really only suitable for your scripting files or editing configuration files but you will learn the basics of how FTP works and then have the skills to upgrade to a more robust FTP client for moving other files onto the Raspberry Pi.


  • Install Notepad++ on your windows PC. https://notepad-plus-plus.org/
  • Download Putty. Link Below
  • Ensure your Raspberry Pi is plugged into your network via Ethernet (cat5)
  • Power up your Pi
  • Ensure your LAN has DHCP enabled...most routers will have this set as default.

Finding your RPi IP address

If you already have your raspberry pi on the network and you know its IP address then that is half the battle. Alternatively if you have just finished installing Raspbian and you are not sure what to do from here then do not panic!! Check this article to find your IP address. http://dirtyoptics.com/find-raspberry-pi-ip-address/

Method 1: Notepad++ (My Favourite!)

Navigate your way to: https://notepad-plus-plus.org/ and download the latest release for Notepad++. Install as per any other windows application and run it up. You will notice it looks very similar to the generic windows text editor however it does allow for some syntax highlighting. A handy little editor also if you are just starting to dive into Python and other coding languages.

Once Notepad++ is open, navigate to: Plugins / NppFTP / Show NppFTP Window. (If you do not see NppFTP you may need to go into the plugin manager and install it)

Once you have the NppFTP window open you will need to create an SFTP profile for your RPI. Please note that when SSH is enabled on your Pi it also opens up port 22 for you to utilise SFTP over the SSH connection. (Well thats my understanding anyhow!).

  • Insert Pi IP
  • Port 22
  • Select SFTP
  • Username: pi (If left as default)
  • Password: raspberry (If left as default)

After you have set it up, click close/save. Find and click the connect button in the NppFTP window and connect to the profile you just setup. After a few seconds you should be able to view a “windows like” file tree of your Pi. You can also double click on any text file and edit directly in the Notepad ++ editor. When you click “save” it will automatically upload that file back to the Pi. Particularly useful when editing Python code and you want to run directly on the Pi. This can be dangerous at times, if updating important configuration docs ensure you back them up first.

Method 2: Using SSH/Terminal and 'Nano' Editor

If you are feeling adventurous, and want to use SSH to edit configuration files then strap yourself in. For the ‘un-intiated’, Linux commands differ heavily from the standard Win DOS commands. You will notice some similarities, but for the most part its a bit of a learning curve. We are not going to cover absolutley everything here but the basics for editing files whilst you are in a terminal session. (Accessing you Pi directly)

The first thing you will want to ensure is that your RPI is powered up, Plugged into your network and you know the IP address . Assuming you have installed Raspbian onto your Micro SD and inserted the SD card prior to powering up we can then begin to access the Pi via SSH. (SSH = Secure SHell). This is pretty much a standard way of accessing your Raspberry Pi if you do not have a monitor available. SSH is enabled by default as part of the Raspbian build.

You will now be required to download and open a small terminal program called ‘Putty’ (There are other, but this is the most popular) http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html run the putty.exe from your PC and input the following information.

  • Hostname/IP Addres - Insert your RPI IP
  • Port 22
  • Select SSH

Now that you have logged into your Raspberry Pi via SSH its time to start Nano. Nano is a Linux command line text editor. It is pretty simple to get running and use. It can be run in two different ways.

sudo nano

This will create a blank text entry. The correct syntax to follow is:

sudo nano /path/to/filename

If you use a path that is not valid or it cannot find the file you want to edit, then a blank entry will be created.

If you wanted to edit the Raspberry Pi config file, then the command would look like:

Now that you have accessed the config file with nano, you can go through and make your changes. Use the arrow keys to navigate through the text file, and the usual backspace/enter to move things around.

It would be wise to make a backup file of this configuration first

Once complete, hit CTRL-X to exit, then Y to save. It will overwrite the old file with your new one.

What Next?

  • Download and try winSCP to transfer images and larger files.
  • Setup an FTP server on the Raspberry Pi.
  • Utilise a standalone FTP client to connect to the Raspberry Pi. (Filezilla/cuteFTp etc etc)

32 x 32 LED Matrix setup on RPI2

After building a few LED matrices from LED strip lighting and soldering a ton of connections, I decided to give these pre-fabricated LED matrix modules a shot. After a bit of research it turns out that using only a Raspberry Pi and a fully functional Library from the Legend Henner Zeller, you can accomplish just about anything. The cheap Chinese panels that we sourced are fitted with a HUB75 connector which is easily interfaced with a breadboard and some jumper wires or using the opensource Active-3 board, again designed by Henner. His library can be found here: Rpi-RGB-LED-Matrix Library – https://github.com/hzeller/rpi-rgb-led-matrix

Bill of Materials (BOM)

  • LED Matrix: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/1239156 (P5 32x32 modules with Hub75 are a good starting point.)
  • A Raspberry Pi 2 or 3
  • A breadboard and T-Cobbler RPI 40 pin Breakout (Just to make life easier! You can grab these from Adafruit.)
  • Alternatively build an Active-3 adapter for easier chaining of Matrix Panels. (See hzeller github page for more details.)
  • Some Jumper Wires
  • A sense of adventure.....


Assuming you are semi-proficient with Linux and have installed Raspbian than you can follow along here. Otherwise you first need to setup your RPI and access the terminal/SSH interface. The guide here will get you up and with the “NOOBS” installation for your pi.

Install Henner Zeller’s LED Matrix library onto your Pi:

sudo wget https://github.com/hzeller/rpi-rgb-led-matrix/archive/master.zip

Unzip the Archive:

sudo unzip master.zip

Once unzip completes you should then be able to view the directory and it’s contents:

cd rpi-rgb-led-matrix-master/

You then need to compile the library by running the command:

sudo make

Once compiled, you can run the following command, this will give you an output of all the available switches:

sudo ./led-matrix

This command will output the following for your reference:

$ sudo ./led-matrix
Expected required option -D <demo>
usage: ./led-matrix <options> -D <demo-nr> [optional parameter]
        -r <rows>     : Panel rows. '16' for 16x32 (1:8 multiplexing),
                        '32' for 32x32 (1:16), '8' for 1:4 multiplexing; Default: 32
        -P <parallel> : For Plus-models or RPi2: parallel chains. 1..3. Default: 1
        -c <chained>  : Daisy-chained boards. Default: 1.
        -L            : 'Large' display, composed out of 4 times 32x32
        -p <pwm-bits> : Bits used for PWM. Something between 1..11
        -l            : Don't do luminance correction (CIE1931)
        -D <demo-nr>  : Always needs to be set
        -d            : run as daemon. Use this when starting in
                        /etc/init.d, but also when running without
                        terminal (e.g. cron).
        -t <seconds>  : Run for these number of seconds, then exit.
                        (if neither -d nor -t are supplied, waits for <RETURN>)
        -b <brightnes>: Sets brightness percent. Default: 100.
        -R <rotation> : Sets the rotation of matrix. Allowed: 0, 90, 180, 270. Default: 0.
Demos, choosen with -D
        0  - some rotating square
        1  - forward scrolling an image (-m <scroll-ms>)
        2  - backward scrolling an image (-m <scroll-ms>)
        3  - test image: a square
        4  - Pulsing color
        5  - Grayscale Block
        6  - Abelian sandpile model (-m <time-step-ms>)
        7  - Conway's game of life (-m <time-step-ms>)
        8  - Langton's ant (-m <time-step-ms>)
        9  - Volume bars (-m <time-step-ms>)
        10 - Evolution of color (-m <time-step-ms>)
        11 - Brightness pulse generator
        ./led-matrix -t 10 -D 1 runtext.ppm
Scrolls the runtext for 10 seconds

Now its time to get some output onto the panel. If you are running a singular 32×32 panel, you should be able to run the example without issue.

sudo ./led-matrix -t 10 -D 1 runtext.ppm

If your panel is connected correctly and powered up you should see a scrolling image pass through the panel. With the example above it will only last 10 seconds. You can now begin to experiment with the above switches to see what output you can achieve.


  • Output RPI GUI to Matrix Panels (Coming Soon!)
  • Output Twitter msg to Matrix Panels (Coming Soon!)
  • Use Pixelpusher Protocol on Matrix (Coming Soon!)